The first Saturday in May is one of the great days in American sport, home of the “most exciting two minutes in sports”, the Kentucky Derby. For me the beauty of this day is that it combines three of the great pastimes in our country: spectator sports, gambling and tailgating (Ok, so there isn’t actually a car, but you’re drinking in the sun with friends, so it’s close enough).
In 2002 I attended all 3 Triple Crown Races, coming a War Emblem bobble at the start of the third leg from witnessing the first trifecta since 1979. (I’ve been to the Preakness 6 times and the Belmont twice.) Before I’d attended any of the races, I scoured the web for a better guide to attending, and had trouble finding the straight dope. I realize it’s too late for this year’s Derby, but I just thought of providing this info. Perhaps it’ll help your journey next year.
The Derby is obviously a huge sporting event, but perhaps even more so, it is an enormous party. Louisville, already known for its social scene (bars normally close at 4 AM), hosts a seemingly non-stop party for two weeks, culminating with Derby weekend. The rumors are true: legally bars are not required to close between 6AM Friday and 6AM Sunday — so while some may close for a few hours here and there, the term “non-stop party” can actually be applied here.
There are plenty of hotels in the Lousiville, but you’ll need to reserve VERY early to get one. (Most hotels require at least two nights on Derby weekend, perhaps three.) We actually stayed at the Holiday Inn in Clarksville, Indiana, just over the bridge from Lousiville (and, strangely enough, in a different time zone than L’ville, which made for some interesting timing issues).
Taxicabs are available throughout the city, but on Derby day especially can be difficult to find. Get up as early as possible on Derby day to find a cab quickly, and be prepared to wait at least an hour after the race. (Still better than drinking and driving — you meet lots of interesting people in line.)
At the Derby itself, those seeking out the huge party should head for the infield — the rich and famous dress to the nines and do their fair share of carousing in the grandstands, but unless you’re really loaded or really into horses, the infield is probably the place for you ($40 General Admission). Although the most legendary, the Derby infield is probably the most tame of any of the big 3 races — you’ll see as many families on blankets as college frat boys screaming “show your t*ts” at any female who will listen. In my opinion the one thing that limits the Derby crowd more so than at the Preakness is that bringing beer or liquor into the Infield is prohibited — you must purchase $5 watered down beers or $8 mint juleps once inside. (It’s Derby tradition to attempt to smuggle liquor any way possible, but plenty of people get caught at the gates every year.) Interestingly, this year will be the first year that the Belmont will follow the Derby’s footsteps and prohibit outside alcohol.
You can bring chairs, blankets, food, sunscreen, etc. Make sure you bring plenty of food, water, and other essentials to get you through the day, especially if it will be hot. If it rains, bring layers and appropriate gear. Some do’s and donts:
Do: wear sunscreen, bring food, wear rain gear in the rain, wear sneakers on a rainy day, grab some TP in the portapotty early.
Don’t: bring bottles or glass, wear flip-flops on a cold rainy day, say you don’t burn easily, forget to bet, eat a lot of mexican food beforehand.
It’s late and my mind is beginning to wander, but all I can say is that the Derby is an awesome event and everyone should try to go at least once. Whether you want to pay close attention to the races or just party your butt off, this event has something for everyone.
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